7nt Port Cassafières to St. Gilles ONEWAY
We’ve packed a lot into this 7 night suggested itinerary which serves you the very best the Camargue has to offer… cruising across the open waters of the Etang de Thau, fun on the beach, strolling around the ancient walled city of Aigues-Mortes, a tour of the salt-flats, an evening on a cattle ranch and bird-spotting in the marshes. Phew! Thankfully it’s broken up by a lot of relaxing, and virtually lock-free, cruising!
Suggested Itinerary
Arrive at base
2pm – 5pm
After you have arrived and checked-in, we’ll show you to your boat as quickly as possible. Spend time settling in, freshen up and await your pre-departure briefing which will be given by one of our base technicians. They will familiarise you with the boat’s domestic systems and give you a hands-on demonstration of the boat controls and how to operate it. They will make sure you are comfortable and confident controlling the boat, as well as navigating the waterway, before you set off.
Explore Portiragnes Plages
5pm – 6:30pm
While part of your crew is settling on the boat, you can take the opportunity to stock up on groceries for the week ahead at the Spar Supermarket in Portiragnes Plages (about a 25 minute walk or a 8 minute cycle from the base on the D37 – just before you reach the beach). If you’re all set for your journey, take some time to enjoy a relaxing walk along the beach at Plage Portiragnes and Plage La Redoute – just keep walking for another 4 minutes after the supermarket and you’ll find the Mediterranean Sea.
Dinner at La Côterie, Portiragnes Plages
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Enjoy dinner near the coast in this laidback local pizzeria. For bookings: +33 449066002 | la-coterie.negocio.site
Overnight in Port Cassafières
For families with younger children
Instead of Portiragnes Plages: Just a 10 minute cycle (or 30 minute walk) from our base, to the north of the canal, Eurl Azimut adventures operates a series of high rope course through the trees, and a climbing tower. They open until 2pm – 6pm (9am – 7pm in July and August). Book in advance at azimut-aventures.fr and note they shut down for the winter in early September.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Port Cassafières > Agde
9am – 10:30am
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 0 locks
Shortly after you leave base, the Canal du Midi intersects with the Libron River where you’ll pass through the Ouvrages du Libron (Works of Libron). The River Libron has a propensity to flash flood, which would make passage along this part of the Midi impossible, if not for this nifty structure which cleverly diverts the flow of the Libron into two channels in times of flood. When this happens, each channel can be blocked in turn, allowing boats to pass as each channel is closed. A board, explaining how it works, is located next to it.
When you arrive in Agde, moor in the basin just before the Round Lock.
Explore Agde
10:30am – 12:30pm
Once a Greek city, a medieval fortress and a rich village during the Renaissance, Agde was largely built using black volcanic rocks. The old town has a lovely little center with cobbled streets, full of pleasant shops, restaurants and buildings with medieval architectural details. It also has a pretty church and a local museum.
Lunch at La Marina, Agde
12:30pm – 2pm
Take your pick from a smorgasboard of delicious homemade local dishes at this popular and unique restaurant, set on a barge on the banks of the river. Bookings are advised: +33 (0)9 82288864 | restaurantlamarinaagde.fr
Agde > Marseillan
2pm – 4pm
Approx. 2hrs | 2 locks
As you set off, you’ll immediately need to pass through the Round Lock. When it was built in the 1600s, the lock was perfectly round but, in 1984, it was extended to accommodate lager barges. The lock gives access to three different water levels – two gates access the canal, while a third gate opens onto the Hérault River (although rental boats are not allowed this way).
Etang de Thau
Between Agde and Marseillian, you’ll reach the end of the Canal di Midi and enter the Etang de Thau – a vast saltwater lagoon, separated from the Mediterranean Sea by a thin strip of sand. It’s a lovely contrast to canal cruising and will be a highlight of your vacation. Stay within the marked channels which guide you to each lakeside town. Your first stop is Marseillian – which is only 1.5km from the entrance to the lake.
Explore Marseillan
4pm – 6pm
Finish your sightseeing day with a glass of Noilly-Prat, Marseillan’s famous vermouth. The House of Noilly-Prat is only a few meters away from the Marseillan port. You can book a tour of the house and vermouth tasting directly on their website: noillyprat.com
Noilly Prat offers a free cocktail to Emerald Star customers when booking a “Discover” visit on their website, with the promotional code: LEBOAT19.
Dinner at La Table d’Emilie, Marseillan
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Enjoy a delicious meal at this very popular restaurant with dishes based on traditional French cuisine. The pâté en croûte is excellent! For bookings: +33 (0)467776359 | la-table-demilie-marseillan.com
Overnight in Marseillan
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Marseillan > Mèze
9am – 10:30am
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 0 locks
Continue your journey across the Etang de Thau. Stay within the marked channels which navigate you around the miles of oyster farms. The Etang de Thau produces more than 20,000 tonnes of oysters and mussels each year.
Explore Mèze
10:30am – 12:30pm
Take a stroll round the marina and down the city’s alleyways to discover wine-growers houses that were built in traditional style. The Penitents Chapel overlooking the ramparts has a fabulous terrace that offers the best views of the city.
Lunch at La Mezon, Mèze
12:30pm – 2pm
In the north of Mèze, Sesquier Park offers a pleasant setting for a picnic. However, if you prefer to sample some of the local cuisine such as world-famous, fresh oysters, we highly recommend La Mezon, one of Mèze’s top restaurants overlooking the port. Bookings are a must: +33(0)6 18395649
Mèze > Bouzigues
2pm – 3:30pm
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 0 locks
Explore Bouzigues
3:35pm – 6:30pm
From Bouzigues you are able to enjoy a beautiful view of Sète across the Etang de Thau and sample the famous oysters and mussels from the lake, complimented by Picpoul de Pinet, the popular, native white wine.
Dinner at Le Grand Bleu, Bouzigues
7:30pm – 9:30pm
You could cook a delicious dinner on board with the oysters and mussels that you bought earlier in the day, while enjoying the sun setting over the Étang de Thau. Or, if you fancy eating out, we recommend Le Grand Bleu. Bookings are advised: +33(0) 4 67 78 72 09 | legrandbleu-bouzigues.fr
Overnight in Bouzigues
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Bouzigues > Frontignan
9am – 11am
Approx. 2hrs | 0 locks
Travel to Sète
11am – 11:30am
From the moorings, you can reach the train station by foot in 10 minutes. The train journey to Sète takes about 5 minutes. Or, if you have bikes, its a 30 minutes cycle-ride.
Lunch at La Prohibition, Sète
12pm – 1:30pm
For something a little different, enjoy this charmingly quaint place with one chef producing world-class dishes out of a tiny kitchen. Because of the small size of this lunch spot, bookings are strongly advised: +33(0) 981760788
Explore Sète
1:30pm – 5:30pm
Be enchanted by the colorful façades of Sète, where countless bridges criss-cross the canals. Travel between the lighthouse and the central food market where you should try a “Tielle”, the local speciality that is a delicious pie filled with octopus and a spiced tomato sauce. For the best view of the city and the saltwater lagoons, catch a bus to the top of St. Clair Mount.
Travel back to Frontignan
5:30pm – 6pm
Cycle or take the train back to Frontignan. If you would rather stay and have dinner in Sète, the last train departs at 9:45pm.
Dinner at L’Epicurien, Frontignan
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Just a 5 minute walk from the moorings in Frontignan, this small restaurant has an unassuming exterior but don’t be put off. The warm welcome and the exceptionally tasty mediterranean cuisine is second-to-none. +33 6 19 13 12 66
Overnight in Frontignan
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Frontignan > Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone
8:30pm – 10:30pm
Approx. 2hrs | 0 locks
IMPORTANT: Just as you leave Frontignan – there’s a lifting bridge which, for most of the year, only opens twice a day – at 8:30am and at 4pm. So make sure you are ready to pass through promptly at 8:30am, otherwise you’ll miss a day’s worth of cruising. (Note: in July and August, the bridge opening times are 8:30am, 1pm and 7pm.)
Explore Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone
10:30am – 11:30am
Stop by the Maguelone Cathedral to discover this jewel of Romanesque art, built in the 11th Century. This fortress was home to the Montpellier diocese for nearly ten centuries.
Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone > Palavas-les-Flots
11:30am – 12noon
Approx. 30mins | 0 locks
Explore Palavas-les-Flots
12noon – 1pm
Take some time to explore the Parc du Levant with its beautiful waterfall and visit the train museum right next to it. You can also visit “La Redoute Ballestras”, home of the Albert Dubout museum.
Lunch in Palavas-les-Flots
1pm – 1:30pm
Picnic on the beach in Palavas-les-Flots
Relax and have fun on the beach, Palavas-les-Flots
1:30pm – 3pm
Spend some time at the beach for a well-deserved rest or enjoy one of the many sporting activities the area has to offer, including beach volleyball, bicycling and kayaking… among others.
For the more adventurous, L’effet Kiteschool offers special discounts to Emerald Star customers on kitesurfing and wake boarding lessons.
Palavas-les-Flots > Aigues-Mortes
3pm – 6:30pm
Approx. 3hrs 30mins | 0 locks
Dinner at Le Dit Vin, Aigues-Mortes
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Enjoy local specialties such as tuna, cod and bull meat in this restaurant’s cozy courtyard. For bookings: +33 (0)4 66 53 52 76 | leditvinaiguesmortes.eatbu.com
Overnight in Aigues-Mortes
For families with younger children
Palavas-les-flots: During summer, you can enjoy the funfair, which is open every night, at Lunapark.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Explore Salin d’Aigues-Mortes
9am – 12:30pm
Spend a fascinating morning on a guided tour to the heart of the Salin d’Aigues-Mortes and discover the salt tables, the fabulous Sel de Camargue and the pink waters which make this place so magical and other-worldly. Learn about the work of the salt workers, the harvesting of Camargue Salt and see exceptional flora and fauna. You can take the tour on a little tourist train, or by foot and they start just a 20 minute walk away from the moorings which are under the unmissable Tower of Constance. Bookings in advance: +33 4 66 73 40 24 | visitesalinsdecamargue.com
Lunch at Le Bistrot Paiou, Aigues-Mortes
12:30pm – 2pm
Enjoy dishes such as the popular bull carpaccio, fresh grilled linefish and more at this popular bistro-style restaurant set inside the walls of the old town. For bookings: +33 4 66 71 44 95
Explore Aigues-Mortes
2pm – 4pm
Must-see stops include the Towers and Ramparts of Aigues-Mortes, and the Tour Carbonniere. This city truly is a unique jewel of medieval military architecture and well worth a leisurely stroll around the old town.
L’épicerie de Maman offers a discount to Emerald Star customers. The store, located in the center of Aigues-Mortes, offers various natural and perfumed olive oils sourced from locally grown olives and products created by local craftsman and artisans.
Overnight in Aigues-Mortes
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Aigues-Mortes > Gallician
9am – 10:30am
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 0 locks
Explore Gallician
10:30am – 12:30pm
If you’re feeling active, then cross the bridge and head south of the canal on your bikes. In 15-20 minutes, the dead-straight road will bring you to the Scamandre Nature Reserve. A raised boardwalk will take you to the heart of the marsh where you will spot an amazing variety of birds – from Ibis to hoopoe; bee eater to stork! camarguegardoise.com Or take a 10min walk through Gallician village to find ‘Cave Pilote de Gallician’ cellar, you can taste and buy Costières de Nîmes wine. gallician.com
Lunch at Le Café du Pont, Gallician
12:30pm – 1:30pm
Enjoy delicious seafood dishes from this local eatery. For bookings: +33 (0)4 66 73 57 87
Gallician > St. Gilles
1:30pm – 3:30pm
Approx. 2hrs | 0 locks
Explore St. Gilles
3:30pm – 6:30pm
St. Gilles is famous for its magnificent Benedictine abbey, Abbatiale de St. Gilles, which is included in the UNESCO Heritage List, as part of the World Heritage Sites of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. If your car has been transferred from Port Cassafieres, you could take a 10 minute drive north to Oliveraie Jeanjean, an organic olive oil mill in a 30 thousand hectare olive grove. They offer free self-guided tours and a tasting, afterwhich you can buy some olive-related souvenirs to take home. Our base team can help you arrange a taxi if you don’t have your car. oliveraie-jeanjean.com
Dinner at Le Cours, St. Gilles
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Enjoy a solid brasserie-style meal outside on the terrace of this local gem. For bookings: +33 (0)4 66 87 31 93 | https://www.hotel-le-cours.com/en/restaurant/
Overnight in St. Gilles
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Enjoy your final breakfast on board before tidying and vacating your boat by 9am (unless you have booked and paid for a late-checkout)
Depart St. Gilles
9am
10 night alternative
If you have additional nights booked, why not take a train from Sète or Frontignan and visit the capital of the region, Montpellier, which is worth the trip if you have an extra day. Montpellier is a lively student city with plenty of restaurants, bars and shops where you can easily travel by tramway, although the city center, L’écusson, can also be easily explored on foot.
After you have reached St. Gilles, you might also have time to continue traveling east to Beaucaire – a further 3 hours along the canal. From Beaucaire, cross the bridge and discover Tarascon, a city of heritage and rich in history. By the Rhône River, Tarascon Castle is one of the most beautiful fortresses in Europe.
This itinerary is a suggestion only
This suggested itinerary is an indication of what could be accomplished, and your ability to accomplish it, is not a contractual obligation of Le Boat. Emerald Star is unable to guarantee when your pre-departure briefing will take place and in some cases it will not be given until the morning after your arrival. In these instances, you will need to adapt the itinerary outlined to accommodate a later departure. All cruising distances and times are approximations and are subject to local navigation restrictions at the time you cruise, planned or otherwise, which may also require you to deviate from the itinerary shown. Please check advertised opening times of sights, attractions and restaurants to avoid disappointment – some may need to be booked in advance. All meals, entry fees and tour tariffs are payable at your own expense. Attractions, restaurants and even locks and/or stretches of the waterway may be closed or can close without notice.
We’d love to hear from you
We’ve tried our very best to ensure the accuracy of the information we’ve provided. If you have followed all or some of this itinerary and have found something isn’t quite right, or perhaps you have some helpful tips and pointers that we could add which might be useful to your fellow boaters, we’d love to hear from you. Please email us at: itineraries@leboat.com
Image Credits
Portiragnes: capdagde.com | Agde: O. Maynard | Etang de Thau: M. Ressam | Noilly-Prat: Maison Noilly-Prat | La Table d’Emilie: guide.michelin.com | Mèze: Stuart Pearce | La Mezon: amazoncreek.com | Bouzigues: Sète Tourism | Sète: M. Ricard | Dinner on board, Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone: Stuart Pearce | Maguelone Cathedral: locations-simonet.fr | Aigues-Mortes aerial view: Aigues-Mortes Tourism Office | Parc du Levant: Aigues-Mortes Tourism Office | Plage Palavas-les-Flots: Stuart Pearce | Salins du Midi: Aigues-Mortes Tourism Office | Aigues-Mortes: Aigues-Mortes Tourism Office | Mas de la Comtesse rach website | Scamandre Nature Reserve: BiacheB, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons | Oliveraie-jeanjean: Oliveraie-jeanjeanwebsite | Le Cours Restaurant – Hotel Le Cours Website