7nt Jarnac RETURN via Saint-Savinien
This itinerary takes you west of our base in Jarnac where you’ll pass the famous distillery town of Cognac and the historic, bustling city of Saintes, before reaching St-Savinien. From here, we recommend catching a train to the nearby coastal town of Rochefort to sample its amazing seafood. Compared with an itinerary that heads east, you’ll be interrupted by fewer locks on this west-bound voyage, and the pretty river and gorgeous French countryside are just as beautiful.
Please note: Access to moorings in villages along the Charente will be limited in 2023 while the waterways authorities make repairs to quaysides in various locations along the river. This means that access to waterside services, such as electric hook-up and water will also be less frequently available. While mooring facilities will still be available in the larger towns of Cognac and Saintes, customers may find it necessary to moor and overnight along the river bank a little further outside of some other villages where quaysides may be closed. There will be no facilities available in these locations and a walk back into the village might be necessary to access restaurants and amenities.View interactive map
Suggested itinerary
Arrive at base
2pm – 5pm
After you have arrived and checked-in, we’ll show you to your boat as quickly as possible. Spend time settling in, freshen up and await your pre-departure briefing which will be given by one of our base technicians. They will familiarise you with the boat’s domestic systems and give you a hands-on demonstration of the boat controls and how to operate it. They will make sure you are comfortable and confident controlling the boat, as well as navigating the waterway, before you set off.
Explore Jarnac
5pm – 7pm
Before dinner, you could take the opportunity to stock up on provisions for the week. There’s a choice of three large supermarkets in Jarnac, each just a four-minute drive from the base. Or take a stroll along the river into the centre of town and find Pâtisserie Christophe, a superb patissier and choclateir that is sure to start a your holiday off with a smile.
Dinner at Le Verre y Table, Jarnac
7:30pm – 9:30pm
This trendy and colourful restaurant has a bistro vibe and serves excellent dishes all made from beautifully fresh, local produce. It’s located just a 2 minute drive from our base, although the wine list is excellent and they have a fantastically extensive menu of cognacs – so you may wish make a 15 minute journey by foot instead! We recommend you book in advance. +33 (0)5 45 35 07 28 | leverreytable.fr
Overnight in Jarnac
Please note: The waterways authorities are making repairs to the quayside in Jarnac, resulting in reduced capacity of boats that are allowed to be moored with passengers on board. To enable us to continue operations, overnight moorings are not permitted at our base. We recommend you move your boat and moor in the nature moorings on the west side of Jarnac Lock – which is approximately 25 minutes cruising from our base (including time to pass through the lock). Please allow extra time tomorrow morning to pass back through the lock to continue with the rest of your itinerary.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Jarnac > Cognac
9am – 12noon
Approx. 3hrs | 3 locks
Lunch at La Courtine, Cognac
12noon – 1:30pm
Enjoy a traditionally prepared French feast at La Courtine restaurant, conveniently situated just along the Charente River bank. Dine on their shaded terrace or in their welcoming dining rooms, resplendant with fine wooden decor. You can moor directly at the restaurant’s pontoon. Reservations are required: +33 (0)5 45 82 34 78 | restaurant-la-courtine.fr
Explore Cognac
1:30pm – 6pm
Cognac is known internationally for its namesake Cognac production. Near the marina, several big Cognac trading houses offer visits and tastings. We recommend a visit and tour around the renowned Baron Otard distillery, which is housed inside the Chateau de Cognac, where François I was born. There are a range of tour ‘experiences’ available, ranging from 30 to 90 minutes. Booking recommended: +33 (0)5 45 36 88 86 | chateauroyaldecognac.com
Château Royal de Cognac offers preferential rates on their tours to le Boat customers.
Alternatively, for the true cognac afficiandos, try the Henessy Cognac house, whose tours & tasings range from 90 minutes to a half day. Booking recommended: hennessy.com
Dinner at La Scala, Cognac
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Ideally located on the banks of the Charente, at the foot of the Château de Cognac, La Scala has a lovely shaded terrace on which to enjoy amazing flavours of Italy. +33 (0)5 45 36 59 11 | lascalacognac.fr
Overnight in Cognac
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Cognac > Dompierre-sur-Charente
9am – 11:30am
Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 1 lock
Explore Dompierre-sur-Charente
11:30am – 12:30pm
Take a walk and discover the quaint town of Dompierre-sur-Charente.
Lunch at La Cabana, Dompierre-sur-Charente
12:30pm – 1:30pm
Feast on delicious local fare in this French pub just a 5 minute walk from the river.
Dompierre-sur-Charente > Saintes
1:30pm – 4pm
Approx. 2hrs 30mins | 1 lock
Explore Saintes
4pm – 6pm
Explore this historic city and discover the Gallo-Roman arena that would once seat 15,000 people, the Abbaye aux Dames and the St. Eutrope Church, all unique masterpieces of Romanesque art. If you visit the Abbey, take a ‘Sound Voyages’ tour where, equipped with 3D sound headphones, you’ll guide yourself via a journey of music around the Abbey, including the cloister and the the bell tower.
Abbaye aux Dames offers preferential rates for ‘Sound Voyages’ to Emerald Star customers.
Dinner at Les Saveurs de l’Abbaye, Saintes
7:30pm – 9:30pm
On this restaurant’s delightful terrace, which faces the historical Abbaye aux Dames, you will enjoy light, creative dishes made with locally-sourced produce. Reservations advised: +33 (0)5 46 94 17 91 | saveurs-abbaye.com
Overnight in Saintes
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Saintes > St-Savinien
9:30am – 12noon
Approx. 3hrs | 0 locks
Taxi or train to Rochefort
12noon – 12:30pm
Order a taxi to spend the afternoon in Rochefort. Or you can take the train (approx 30 minutes | 6€). The train station is just 300 metres from the moorings in Saint-Savinien.
Lunch at Les Béatilles, Rochefort
12:30pm – 2pm
Rochefort is a smart and elegant looking town, not very far from the Atlantic Ocean, so the fish and shellfish here are as fresh as they can be. We recommend lunch at Les Béatilles, situated just 3 minutes away from Place Colbert. Don’t forget to try La jonchée rochefortaise, a traditional cheese dessert. +33 (0)5 46 88 23 74 | https://restaurantlesbeatilles.hubside.fr/
Explore Rochefort
2pm – 6:30pm
The town was developed around Louis XIV’s naval base in the 17th century – the restored arsenal can be visited to learn about the town’s ship building heritage. Nearby is the Corderie Royale (the royal ropery) which explains hemp cultivation and will show how those fibres were twisted into 200-metre lengths of rigging. Not far away, the Musée de la Marine has a collection of sailing and steam-boat models and other maritime paraphernalia. Just outside the museum, the Jardin des Retours has individual gardens with maritime themes, including a magnolia garden in honour of the man who first brought these seeds to Europe and the Jardin des Amériques, which has a yew-tree maze commemorating legendary French naval battles.
Taxi or train back to Saint-Savinien
6:30pm – 7pm
Dinner at Le Barrage, Saint-Savinien
7:30pm – 9:30pm
The setting is ideal for people-watching, with its outside tables filling half of the little square in front of the market hall. The food here is simple, but delicious. +33 (0)5 46 90 20 61
Overnight in Saint-Savinien
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Explore Saint-Savinien
9am – 11:30am
Saint-Savinien is a picturesque old town with narrow streets just waiting to be leisurely ambled down. The 12th century Church of Saint-Savinien dominates the skyline of the town – its clocktower was added later in the 14th century. While exploring the streets between the river and the church you will also come across the towers and high stone walls of the Château de La Cave.
Saint-Savinien > Port-d’Envaux
11:30am – 12:30pm
Approx. 1hr | 0 locks
Picnic lunch in Port-d’Envaux
12noon – 2pm
By the river there’s a sandy play area which has a safe area for swimming, as well as refreshments and kayak hire – a nice place for a lunchtime picnic and to while away the afternoon.
Explore Port-d’Envaux
2pm – 4pm
If you’ve added them to your booking, take the bikes (4 minutes from Port-D’envaux) or walk (15 minutes) to admire the magnificent sculptures of the Lapidiales site. A constantly evolving art space where sculptors from all over the world are working on impressive pieces of art.
Port-d’Envaux > Saintes
4:30pm – 6:30pm
Approx. 2hrs | 0 locks
Dinner at L’insolite, Saintes
7:30pm – 9:30pm
This restaurant is always busy and is set in a lovely cobbled street in central Saintes. It serves superb French cuisine but always with a creative twist, with great attention to detail and with lovely textures and flavours. It’s fine dining, but without the formality. Booking recommended: +33 5 46 97 70 69
Overnight in Saintes
For families with younger children
Saint-Savinien: The island of La Grenouillette offers many leisure activities including: fishing, minigolf, swimming pool, tennis and there’s also a large lake, which is home to Port Miniature where they the kids can captain their own smallscale model ships. Right next door there’s also a small farmhouse.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Explore Saintes
9am – 11am
Another chance to explore Saintes and to see anything you missed on your first visit. In the Middle Ages, Saintes had the only bridge over the lower Charente, and was used by pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela. The only remaining part of the bridge is the Arch of Germanicus, a well-known landmark of the city. Saintes was the first Roman capital of Aquitaine; the surviving sculptures and artefacts from that era can be discovered in Mediolanum, Archaeological Museum +33 (0)5 46 74 20 97 | ville-saintes.fr/decouvrir-sortir/culture/musees/musee-archeologique
Saintes > Chaniers
11am – 12:30pm
Approx. 1hr 30mins | 0 locks
Lunch at Le Moulin de la Baine, Chaniers
12:30pm – 2:30pm
Formerly a water mill, which makes a relaxing and beautiful setting to enjoy good quality food by the river. It’s just a 10 minute walk from the moorings in Chaniers, beside Baine lock. +33 (0)6 56 80 24 91 | moulin-baine.com
Chaniers > Cognac
2:30pm – 6pm
Approx. 3hrs 30mins | 2 locks
Dinner at Poulpette, Cognac
7:30pm – 9:30pm
This Michelin-rated restaurant has an unassuming exterior, but don’t be put off. The food is spectacular and sure to be one of the highlights of your vacation. With the menu changing each season, the food here is a fresh and exquisitely prepared as you’ll ever find. Be sure to book: 05 45 82 22 08 | https://www.instagram.com/poulpettecognacrestaurant
Overnight in Cognac
For families with younger children
Chaniers: There is a sandy play area and mini-skate park situated next to Plage de Chaniers, which has a safe area for swimming.
Breakfast on board
8am – 9am
Cognac > Bourg-Charente
9am – 11am
Approx. 2hrs | 2 locks
Explore Bourg-Charente
11am – 12noon
This town has a beautiful Romanesque church from the 12th century and has several castles, including the house of Marnier Lapostolle who produces the famous Grand Marnier.
Lunch at La Ribaudière, Bourg-Charente
12noon – 2pm
Why not try something extra special for lunch? This Michelin-rated restaurant is a true “ambassador of the region”. Their modern menu is inspired by local specialities and the finest selections of wines & spirits in France. Due to high demand, we would recommend booking in advance. +33 (0)5 45 81 30 54 | laribaudiere.com
Bourg-Charente > Jarnac
2pm – 3pm
Approx. 1hr | 1 lock
Please note: The waterways authorities are making repairs to the quayside in Jarnac, resulting in reduced capacity of boats that are allowed to be moored with passengers on board. To enable us to continue operations, overnight moorings are not permitted at our base. As such, we recommend you continue past our base and moor along the river bank on the west side of Jarnac Lock – which is approximately 25 minutes cruising from our base (including time to pass through the lock). Please allow time tomorrow morning to pass back through the lock and reach our base and disembark your boat by 9am.
Explore Jarnac
3pm – 5:30pm
Jarnac is the city of former French President, François Mitterrand, and you can visit his childhood home here. It displays the gifts offered to the President by the Heads of State from around the world. +33 (0)5 45 81 38 88 | musee-francois-mitterrand.org.
Maison natale de François Mitterrand offers preferential rates to Emerald Star customers.
Dinner at L’Alambic, Jarnac
7:30pm – 9:30pm
Just a 10 minute walk from the Emerald Star base, the food at this restaurant comes high-rated. A small outdoor seating area spills out on to the pavement and the bustling square and gives real atmosphere as you dine. It gets very busy, so be sure to book: +33 5 45 81 19 58
Overnight in Jarnac
Breakfast on board
7:30am – 8:30am
Enjoy your final breakfast on board before tidying and vacating your boat by 9am (unless you have booked and paid for a late-checkout)
Depart Jarnac
9am
10 night alternative
If you have booked a 10 night trip, after returning to Jarnac you can continue your cruise eastwards. With the extra 3 nights you have, we’d recommend cruising as far as Trois-Palis, a charming village, with a small church and impressive bell tower that can be seen from miles around. It is also well-known for its chocolate factory and its sophisticated cakes. On the way, spend the night in Châteauneuf-sur-Charente and admire St. Pierre church, one of the jewels of Romanesque art in the Charente region. You can also enjoy the safe bathing area and beach “Le Bain des Dames” opposite the small island (île Mattard) where you can also rent canoes. (It is possible to cruise all the way to the city of Angoulême – but it is a 9 hour cruise in each direction from Jarnac, which is a lot of cruising to squeeze into 3 days and doesn’t leave much time to see the city. )
This itinerary is a suggestion only
This suggested itinerary is an indication of what could be accomplished, and your ability to accomplish it, is not a contractual obligation of Le Boat. Emerald Star is unable to guarantee when your pre-departure briefing will take place and in some cases it will not be given until the morning after your arrival. In these instances, you will need to adapt the itinerary outlined to accommodate a later departure. All cruising distances and times are approximations and are subject to local navigation restrictions at the time you cruise, planned or otherwise, which may also require you to deviate from the itinerary shown. Please check advertised opening times of sights, attractions and restaurants to avoid disappointment – some may need to be booked in advance. All meals, entry fees and tour tariffs are payable at your own expense. Attractions, restaurant and even locks and/or stretches of the waterway may be closed or can close without notice.
We’d love to hear from you
We’ve tried our very best to ensure the accuracy of the information we’ve provided. If you have followed all or some of this itinerary and have found something isn’t quite right, or perhaps you have some helpful tips and pointers that we could add which might be useful to your fellow boaters, we’d love to hear from you. Please email us at: itineraries@leboat.com
Image credits
Jarnac: Destination Cognac | Rochefort, Corderie Royale: Stéphanie Nadouce & CT Charentes Tourisme | Saint-Savinien: Mairie de Saint-Savinien-sur-Charente | Port-d’Envaux: Stéphanie Nadouce & CT Charentes Tourisme | Saintes: Johan Allard, via Wikimedia Commons